For anyone interested in food in Shanghai then Hairy Crab Season is by far the most interesting part of the year. During the 9th and 10th months of the lunar calendar, autumn to you and I, Shanghai’s culinary scene is all about hairy crab.

They can be found in every market and restaurant at this time of year, they are even sold in vending machines at subway stations in nearby Nanjing. Make no mistake though, the finest specimens of this costly crustacean — large females — can set you back more than a prime steak.

The thing is, unless you go to the effort and expense of finding the best hairy crab you will probably be left wondering what the furor is all about. For that most Shanghai locals will tell you that you have to go to Yangcheng Lake. Really though, there are better ways to spend your holiday, and, anyway, pick the right restaurant and the Yangcheng crabs come to you instead.